Articles

The Art of Bodysurfing

by Donny Mc.

To Bodysurf as it can and should be done is to fly gracefully across the waters surface with minimal friction and maximum fun. You'd like to do this - yes?

Well assuming you are a competent swimmer with good general fitness and basic surf awareness you will need (apart from a costume or wetsuit!) the following:

1. Swimfins (or flippers - preferably short bladed).
2. Handboard optional (although best for fast breaking deep water bank or reef).
3. A wave or fifty - Any beach point or reef break providing a wedging peak that peels relatively slowly compared to optimum stand board conditions .i.e. Where you find a stand board surfer doing lots of cutbacks; this could mean the wave is just right for tucking into the shoulder on the body.

Observe - Always stretch and warm up watching your selected break for at least 5 - 10 minutes. It would prove advantageous to note any hazards (submerged rocks etc), the timing of set waves and the position of the peak during set waves and of course the position of any rips (travelling or stationary) that come in handy when swimming out.

Get out there! - Referring back to the previous paragraph, the rip should be used as the marine escalator. Don’t just pick a spot from where to swim out because its opposite your selected peak - it doesn’t work like that. Find the body of water (usually discoloured or sandy) that looks to be travelling back out to sea. This is your ticket out the back. Remember:- when faced with having to go under larger broken waves, always dive forward (arms extended) and down, kick hard and grab handfuls of the bottom and drag yourself along or simply hang on until the surge subsides.

Catching them- Position yourself at the peak of the wave just before it breaks then

• Choose your wave they arrive in sets (groups) of up to 10
• Leave the first wave for the aggressive chumps
• Make your decision on going left or right
• Swim 3-4 deep hard strokes while kicking hard - this should give sufficient momentum to achieve the speed for take off
• Always bodysurf with at least one arm extended - don't risk head or neck injuries. Remember to protect yourself from the sea floor by rolling out of a closing wave rather than diving headfirst or if you "go over the falls" try to land flat
• Extend your leading arm (when going right - right arm forward when going left - left arm) straight out and keep the other trailing arm in tight against your body
• Make a planing surface with the palm of your leading hand
• Keep kicking hard, don't stop even when you feel the wave pick you up
• Once on the wave- continue to kick to achieve planing speed - turn towards the breaking wave face by leaning into the direction you want to turn
• Keep your head up and watch where you are heading
• Pick a spot 5 - 15 metres down the line and aim your body for it using your leading arm as a guide
• To reduce speed (stalling for a tube etc) use your legs either by splaying slightly or raising your outside knee towards your chest
• Smile :) you look good: Hoot at fellow bodysurfers if you see them rip
• Avoid collisions with board riders, goat boats and other body surfers - a healthy respect for those already riding a wave will ensure your safe passage through the carpark later

Once you have gained an understanding of the basics of gliding oneself along the face of fast moving liquid mass - many more styles can be added to improve the excitement.

Tube riding - staying inside the wave barrel till time stops still Lay-back - do this and enjoy the vision of the wave breaking behind you

Spinner (or barrel roll) - going with the grain, attempt a pirouette and land it - then keep going (keep kicking!)

Reverse spinner - against the grain ( always impressive when followed by a spinner)

Dolphin take-off - dive under with both arms extended when attempting a take-off and let the waves momentum pull you forward until popping out onto the face - in the sweet spot -way cool

Hydrofoil - extend both arms approx. 30 degrees from shoulders and sit up, chest out, on your hands (you'll need extra good speed - kick hard)

ps..Enjoy!